The
conditions for pisco were laid down centuries earlier by the adept
engineering of the Incas in the Ica region on the southwestern Peruvian
coast. Ica was a dry, infertile desert region before the Europeans
arrived in the sixteenth century. The Inca's civil engineering laid
the foundation for future agricultural exploitation in the Ica region.
The Europeans acted on the clue left by the Inca emperor Pachacutec
and channeled Andean melt waters to where they planned to plant their
vineyards.
Henk
Milne described the Incan legend of Pachacutec:
When
the Inca emperor Pachacutec offered his hand in marriage to a fair
maiden from the Peruvian hinterland and was turned down in favor of
her plebeian boyfriend, he might have been forgiven for being miffed.
But instead of achieving the consummation of his desire by, say, knocking
off the rival and insisting on the nuptials - or some other such straightforward
monarchical solution so common in those simpler times - he gave in
gracefully. In fact, just to show how sporting of a chap he was, her
offered to grant the lady her dearest wish. She, evidently not be
a material girl, said that her dream was that the waters of the River
Ica be brought to her hometown in the desert. Fifteen days later,
forty thousand laborers wiped their collective brow, dropped their
shovels and
sat down beside the 30-mile canal they had just dug. The heart-smitten
Supreme Panjandrum dubbed this waterway the "Achirana".
The Achirana provided the Europeans with a sufficient water source
to plant vineyards with the Negra Corriente grape in 1547. The vineyards
were so prosperous that within ten years, Peru had thriving wine exports
to Argentina, Chile, and Spain. Over 100,000 acres of vineyards flourished
in the Ica region. The cultivation of the grape in Latin America was
a result of Peru's success and it is believed that the widely grown
Criolla grape of Argentina and the Pais grape of Chile are descendants
of the Negra Corriente grape originally brought over to the new world
by the Spanish
The Incas already had a favorite drink called Chicha, made from fermented
corn and water. Chicha was a ceremonial drink for the Incas and made
only by women, the so-called "Chosen Women."
One of the chief occupations of the Chosen Women was the making
of chicha for the Inca and his nobles and priests, and the making
of it required the crushing of the sprouted corn after it had been
boiled. Much crushing was required because much chicha was drunk.
Drunkenness was required, in fact, at Inca feasts and ceremonies,
since the liquor of corn was as sacred as the kernel they named "life
giver". No ceremony began without the Inca lord or priest's pouring
chicha on the ground to honor the corn goddess, Mama Sara.
The Europeans, however, craved their native brandies. "Through
trial and error they found a grape called the Quebranta produced a
pure, highly potent, aromatic brandy which eventually became known
by the port from which it was exported to grateful drinkers abroad:
“Pisco".
Pisco is now the national drink of Peru and comes in two sorts – “sipping
Pisco” for the palate without additives and there are somefine ones
and “rough Pisco” best used for the famous Pisco Sour. Both can be
enjoyed at The Cross Keys in Cusco
A History of Pisco Sour:
The
Pisco Sour is one of the worlds great Cocktails and a world class
Pisco Sour can be enjoyed at The Cross Keys. The first mention of
the Pisco Sour is to be found in the book “ Lima the City of Kings
(The Peruvian Book) 1928-29”. Almost 80 years ago, the Pisco Sour
figured in the list of beverages offered by The Morris Bar, a traditional
establishment located on Jiron de la Union in Lima. The entry in the
book says the following: “Morris, Victor, Morris Bar. Importer of
all classes of wines, spirits, beers, of which there is a select assortment
of the finest brands. This bar has been made famous for the exquisite
preparation of its Whisky Sour and Pisco Sour …. in which authentic
spirits are used.”
Everything points to Victor Morris’s adaptation the Whisky Sour recipe
to include Peruvian Pisco and the results were magnificent.
Later the Hotel Maury in Lima became famous for its preparation of
a stupendous Pisco Sour. Following this, the Hotel Bolivar (to-day
a former shadow of its Victorian elegance but the bar is worth a visit
) followed the trend with its Catedral ( Cathedral) which includes
a double measure of Pisco in the cocktail. The actress Ava Gardener
was seen to dance on the bar of the Bolivar Hotel after several of
these Cathedral Pisco Sour’s!!
A Recipe for a Traditional
Pisco Sour:
2 parts Pisco 1 part key lime
juice 1 part sugar
syrup or sugar 1 egg white Ice 5-6 cubes
Blend
all and serve with a dash of bitters.
A
Recipe for a Pisco Sour Catedral:
6 oz Pisco 1 oz key lime
juice 2 oz sugar syrup
or sugar 1 egg white 5-6 ice cubes
Blend
all and serve with a dash of bitters or sprinkle of cinnamon.